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Meathead Goldwyn’s Grilling Wisdom: You’re Probably Doing It All Wrong

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Don’t freak out. The guru of the grill walks us through a few techniques that will save your summer cookout season.

He’s got serious chops

Meathead Goldwyn’s name is well known in the barbecue community. He was recently named to the American Royal Barbecue Hall of Fame, one of two living legends to be inducted in this year’s class. Red hot Rodney Scott is the other. (Last year’s selections made history; details in the story below.)

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A food writer from way back, Meathead got his evocative nickname from his father. And it had nothing to do the current obsession to help ensure folks properly cook their ‘cue. The moniker was lifted straight out of All in the Family, the not-so-flattering barb Archie Bunker frequently launched at Rob Reiner’s character. Goldwyn says it stuck and he’s fine with that.

He launched his content-rich Amazing Ribs website in 2005, fanning the flames of his barbecue celebrity. The subsequent self-titled cookbook — authored with Greg Blonder — came out in 2016 and has become a go-to reference for aspiring barbecue cooks. The basic premise prizes science and a good digital thermometer for turning out perfectly flame-kissed food. The New York Times best seller was named one of the 100 best cookbooks of all time by Southern Living.

Don’t get burned

For many, grilling is all about the sear. Cook that steak, burger, chicken, slab of salmon over high heat and you’re likely to get burned, Meathead said.

“How many times have you been to a cookout when chicken is served scorched on the outside and raw in the middle?” he asked in a recent phone interview.

It doesn’t have to be this way if cooks follow his exhaustively tested advice.

“It’s all about understanding and controlling the energy being produced,” he said.

  • Convection cooking involves warm air circulating, a technique best demonstrated when the lid to the grill is closed and the food is placed over indirect heat.
  • Conduction cooking is what takes place when you lay cold food on a hot grill, effectively branding the ingredient and increasing the possibility of burning the exterior while the interior remains raw.
  • Infrared cooking is the most challenging to nail, a method that involves creating coals that are glowing rather than red hot.

Ideally, grills should be divided into two parts: a hot side and a cool side. “The hot side is where the coals are stacked up. It’s like being in the sun. The cool side is like stepping into the shade.”

Here’s where it gets a little tricky. For popular grill favorites, Meathead suggests rethinking the sear-first approach: “You don’t have to go pedal-to-the-metal in the beginning. Cooking first over high heat squeezes out the juices.”

Instead, practice the art of the reverse sear. “Warm food first on the cool side of the grill. It’s a more gentle approach and probably goes against everything you’ve learned.”

Finish food with a sear, creating the crave-worthy crust that looks as if it came out of the kitchen at a high-end steakhouse. “That’s called the Maillard Reaction,” he explained.

During that final step of the grilling process, do not walk away from the cooker. “When it’s on the hot side of the grill, you need to watch it like a hawk. And flip it every minute or two until it’s crispy and brown.”

You’ll know it’s done when the temp’s just right. And that’s where the digital thermometer is downright essential.

“You don’t want to get grandma sick at the cookout,” Meathead said.

A $20 investment will score a decent instant-read digital thermometer while the high-end models sell for around $100. Meathead and his team have reviewed more than 200 digital thermometers.

Final first-rate tip

Meathead has years of experience to draw on and his fans are routinely impressed by the deep dives he takes on cooking over flames.

One of his best bits of advice might help grillers avoid the dreaded moment when food sticks: Oil the ingredients, not the cooking surface for best results.

And when it comes to seafood, there’s nothing better than slathering the surface of fish with mayo: “That was a tip I picked up from a chef at a seafood restaurant. The mayo drips off during the cooking, you don’t even taste it.” Mmmm, well done.

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