Whether yours is a roast dinner, sharing plates laden with seasonal salads, or a mound of just-caught seafood, Sunday lunch is the meal that ends one week and begins another, a stalwart of Britain’s great edible institutions and a delicious moment for pause. Here are this year’s 50 best picks arranged by region...
WALES
Wright’s Food Emporium, Llanarthney
In deepest Carmarthenshire, west beyond the Brecon Beacons, curving through valleys past umpteen fields of sheep, lies an old whitewashed farmhouse. Wright’s – part-deli, part-bottle shop, part-restaurant - is a family venture with a mid-century modern feel, bright and light and beautiful. Championing Welsh produce, both the deli and the on-site dining are a roaring hit. On Sundays you won’t find a roast, but if you get there in time, don’t miss the bubble and squeak, or else tuck into a superlative ploughman’s, all-singing salad, or one of their many head-turning sandwiches, like toasted Welsh rarebit with nduja, steak with Hafod cheddar, or muffuletta. All this can be washed down with a Skyborry Welsh cider, or one of many mad-good natural wines. Dogs welcome in select rooms: one a conservatory, the other with a fire, depending on pooch’s preference. Sunday opening times: 11am-5pm MH
Llanarthne, Carmarthenshire SA32 8JU; 01558 668929;
wrightsfood.co.uk; £
Inn at the Sticks, Llansteffan
Modern Welsh cuisine just a short walk from Llansteffan castle, on the banks of the beautiful Towy estuary. The warming, homespun interiors of Inn at the Sticks – there are five en-suite rooms, all wooden floors and stone-hewn fireplaces – are a good match for the menu. Roasts include topside of beef with Yorkshire puds, roasties and pan jus; loin of pork with sage and onion stuffing; and crown of turkey breast with sage and onion stuffing and pigs in blankets. Vegetarians might have roast pepper linguine with sundried tomato and herb oil. For the sweet-toothed, there’s vanilla panna cotta with shortbread biscuit and raspberry coulis; or banana parfait with almond praline. Lunch is served from 12‑2:30pm, and the afternoons are often prolongued with live acoustic music – so it’s best to book. Dogs are welcome in the bar area. PD
Llansteffan, Carmarthenshire SA33 5JG; 01267 241066;
innatthesticks-llansteffan.com; ££
The Whitebrook, Monmouth
“The valley on a plate” is the concept at this Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms. Chef-patron Chris Harrod and his team scour the Wye valley for herbs and plants such as pennywort, hogweed, lesser celandine, bitter cress and borage. These evocative flavours accompany each course, creating uniquely verdant dishes such as plaice with “estuary herbs” and roast lamb shoulder with “lovage goat’s curd”. There’s even a scoop of herb sorbet accompanying dessert. The wine list is as considered as the food, with organic, biodynamic and natural wines available. Vegetarians have their own tasting menu to chomp through. As one might expect in such a fine eatery, where the tablecloths are as crisp and white as the maître d’s aprons, booking is essential and dogs are not allowed. And some Sundays, that’s exactly what’s called for. NC
Whitebrook, Monmouthshire NP25 4TX; 01600 860254;
thewhitebrook.co.uk; £££
SCOTLAND
Inver, Strathlachlan
There’s no special Sunday menu at this little restaurant on the shores of Loch Fyne – just a fantastic choice of local produce, the freshest seafood and imaginative vegetarian fare. Typical dishes include sustainably produced Inverlussa mussels with fino sherry and burnt cream; heritage carrots with liquorice yoghurt; or guinea fowl with cobnuts, cauliflower and greengages. To follow: fennel and caraway frangipane tart; sorrel sorbet and damson vodka; or Scottish farm cheeses. Booking is recommended, with lunch served from 12-3pm. Dogs are welcome in the bar area, but not in the restaurant proper. PD
Strathlachlan, Argyll & Bute PA27 8BU; 01369 860537;
inverrestaurant.co.uk; ££
The Dogs, Edinburgh
Cross a gastropub with your most eccentric, dog-obsessed friend’s front room and you’ll get a picture of one of Edinburgh’s loveliest restaurants. Decor encompasses hound-related pictures and boudoir-style feather lamps, while seating can be cramped (they can only reserve tables for up to six people on Sundays). Service is often mad, but always good – owner David Ramsden worked at London’s Le Caprice before going solo – and menus offer top-notch, unfussy comfort food heralding Scottish and British ingredients. Expect a short but varied wine list, starters such as devilled duck hearts, mains such as ox cheek burger served with skirlie (Scottish oatmeal stuffing) – and don’t leave out the glorious lemon tart. Wag wag. The typical price for a Sunday roast is around £12.95. Lunch served from 12-4pm. VS
110 Hanover Street, Edinburgh EH2 1DR; 0131 220 1208;
thedogsonline.co.uk; ££
The Bridge Inn, Ratho
You’ll find this lovely pub a few miles to the west of Edinburgh, on the banks of the Union Canal in the pretty village of Ratho. It prides itself on its Scottish ales and its ultra-local ingredients. Roasts vary from week to week, but a favourite is saddleback pork, reared just a few minutes’ walk away, served with crackling, Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes, and vegetables that usually come from the walled garden at Ratho Hall. The pub has a full-time gardener, and the wide-ranging menu includes veggie dishes, such as salt-baked heritage beetroot with goat’s cheese, pickled shallots, horseradish jelly, basil dressing, lemon balm and rock cress. Lunch is served from 12-3:45pm, and booking is recommended. Dogs are welcome in the bar area (where the full menu is served). PD
Ratho, Midlothian EH28 8RA, 0131 333 1320;
bridgeinn.com; £££
Glenelg Inn, Glenelg
A traditional Highland inn in a very special setting, with views over the Sound of Sleat to the Isle of Skye. In summer, you’ll see the Skye ferry plying its trade across the Kylerhea narrows. The menu is simple, fresh, seasonal and sourced as close to home as possible – often from the neighbour’s organic farm. The highlight of Sunday lunch (12:30-2pm)is wild Highland venison, roasted and served with potatoes, parsnips, kale, carrot and star anise puree and red wine jus. Or try the shellfish, from the lochs around Glenelg and Skye. Booking essential. Dogs welcome on leads and “preferably not straight from swimming in the sea.” PD
Glenelg, Ross-shire, The Highlands IV40 8JR; 01599 522273;
glenelg-inn.com; ££
NORTHERN IRELAND
The Barking Dog, Belfast
A convivial regulars’ haunt installed across two adjoining Victorian houses. Food is served in the bar area, upstairs in the cosy candlelit dining room, and outdoors – weather permitting. Sunday lunch features a guest musician and families come to be entertained in droves. Specials change daily, all featuring fresh local produce – roast beef and roast chicken are staples; there’s a fish of the day, with vegetarians and vegans amply catered for. As the name (a literal account of what happened when the owners sat down to pick a name and their dogs became impatient) suggests, dogs are welcome in the garden. Lunch is served from 12-4pm. DBS
33-35 Malone Rd, Belfast BT9 6RU; 028 9066 1885;
barkingdogbelfast.com; £
The Parson’s Nose, Hillsborough
A bustling Georgian boozer with a modern leather-and-teal interior. Hungry diners fill the banquettes to order the cheek-warming, belly-filling Sunday lunch menu. Starters include soups served with homemade stout and treacle wheaten bread. Meaty mains (salt-aged beef, belly of pork, roast chicken breast) are served with seasonal veg, roast potatoes and a spoonful of champ (buttery mashed potatoes and spring onions). There’s a celeriac risotto and a fish option, too. Pudding is straightforward: crumble, brownie or sticky toffee pud. Booking advised. Dogs must stay outside. A la carte menu available on request. NC
Hillsborough, County Down BT26 6AB; 028 9268 3009;
ballooinns.com/the-parsons-nose; ££
ENGLAND: THE NORTH
The Black Bull Inn, Frosterley
The Black Bull Inn is a superb Weardale Inn that virtually has its own station, sitting a mere 39 steps – they’ve counted – from the platform at Frosterley station on the heritage Weardale railway running between Stanhope and Bishop Auckland – meaning you can come to Sunday lunch by train.
Said lunch is a suitably traditional affair: roast ribs of Glebe Farm beef, saddle of Whitehouse Farm lamb or leg of Northumbrian pork with sage and red onion sausage meat stuffing, and, crucially, copious amounts of gravy. In fact, the inn is so proud of its gravy, it shares the recipe on its website: bones roasted, then simmered for 20 hours with herbs, vegetables, red wine and seasoning. Everything on the menu is prepared with the same degree of care, from produce as local and seasonal as possible: there are vegetarian options to match the meaty ones.
The decor is all warmth and comfort: gentle lighting, earthen colours; solid wooden tables and cushioned settles; floors of stone flags and ancient timber, replete with homely rugs. There are old-fashioned ranges with open fires and a clutter of framed pictures, copper kitchenalia and grandfather clocks. To add to the olde-worlde atmosphere, live music is a regular feature and the pub – there can’t be many others – has its own church-style bells. Sunday opening times are 11am-5pm with lunch sittings at 12 and 2.30pm. DBS
Frosterley, Co Durham DL13 2SL; 01388 527784;
blackbullfrosterley.com; ££
Freemasons at Wiswell, Clitheroe
Bitter is imbibed and locals linger at this no-nonsense pub in the rolling Ribble Valley, and yet the food offering is determinedly serious and sophisticated. So much so that it has just been crowned 2017’s AA Restaurant of the Year in England. The “simple Sunday family lunch” menu includes “fish fingers”, but you can be sure they won’t bear any resemblance to the orange oblong the name conjures. If you’re here for a blow-out, then order off the à la carte menu, where native lobster, roast foie gras, sticky feather blade and duck-fat chips all shout “pick me”. Vegetarians have a seasonal menu to choose from, with all dishes available as a starter or main. It sounds fancy, but remains blessedly informal. Booking is advised, with lunch served from 12-6pm. NC
Wiswell, Clitheroe, Lancashire BB7 9DF; 01254 822218;
freemasonsatwiswell.com; ££
The George & Dragon, Hudswell
A country inn with awesome views over the Swale valley, the George & Dragon is truly part of its community. Since 2010 it has been a locally owned co‑operative, home to a village library, shop and allotments. It’s also an outstanding place to eat and drink. It was Camra’s national pub of the year in 2016 and Yorkshire pub of the year in 2017. The great-value roasts include rump of beef, loin of pork, leg of lamb and nut roast, served with vegetables, cauliflower cheese, roast potatoes, and – of course – Yorkshire pudding. To follow: parkin, local cheeses, seasonal fruit crumble … Booking is recommended – lunch is served from 12-4pm and dogs are welcome. PD
Hudswell, Yorkshire DL11 6BL; 01748 518373;
georgeanddragonhudswell.co.uk; £
Old Hall Inn, Whitehough
One for the walkers. The Old Hall Inn is a rambling village coaching inn idyllically situated in prime High Peak hiking country. Sunday lunches are served from 12-7:30pm in the many bustling dining rooms of this partially converted Elizabethan manor house. The food is as locally sourced as it comes – the landlord keeps chickens and pigs, and the trout comes fresh off the lines of local anglers. Nut roasts and cheese dishes are available on a vegetarian menu that changes daily. Also worthy of mention: an astounding selection of beers, which have won a fistful of Camra prizes. Its sister pub, the newly renovated Paper Mill across the green, offers even more drink and accommodation options. Borrow one of the Inn’s maps, go for a stroll and be back in time for a slap-up Sunday lunch. You don’t even need to drive here – Chinley station on the Manchester-Sheffield line is just 10 minutes walk away. Book ahead as it gets busy. Dogs are allowed in the main pub section. DH
Whitehough, High Peak, Derbyshire SK23 6EJ; 01663 750529;
old-hall-inn.co.uk; ££
George and Dragon, Clifton
Sundays in this Cumbrian beauty, with its flagstone floors, wood-burning stoves and ruby‑red rugs, are a well-loved tradition. The weekly lunch menu – an array of savoury treats, such as blue cheese souffle and tomato and mussel bisque – is supplemented with roasts on the specials board. There are more unusual cuts of meat and excellent trimmings, all reared, along with the with produce, in the pub’s own garden, fields and farm – part of the the family’s Lowther estate, which has been producing food for 800 years. Vegetarian roasts are available and they’ll cater to vegan, gluten-free and dairy-free requirements. You don’t have to book, but it’s a good idea. Near Penrith, a stone’s throw from the M6. Dogs are allowed in the bar area. Lunch is served from 12‑2:30pm. DBS
Clifton, Cumbria CA10 2ER; 01768 865381;
georgeanddragonclifton.co.uk; ££
The Eagle and Child, Ramsbottom
This is a community pub with a big vision, serving platefuls of “grandma’s favourite classics”. It’s run as a social business that aims to provide marginalised young people with work. Food miles are minuscule thanks to the “incredible edible beer garden”. Meat – such as the roast sirloin of Bowland beef – fish and cheeses all come from local producers. Vegetarians won’t be fobbed off with a nut roast, either: how does a homegrown tomato and Ribblesdale smoked goat’s cheese quiche sound? The pleasingly un-breadcrumbed children’s menu also deserves a mention for its inventiveness. A session here will leave you sated in so many ways. Sunday lunch menu and specials served 12-7pm: booking is advised and £5 deposit is required per person at time of booking. Dogs are allowed outside only. NC
Ramsbottom, Lancashire BL0 0DL; 01706 557181;
eagle-and-child.com; ££
The Punchbowl Inn, Crosthwaite
This inn gives you the option to go formal in the dining room or take a paper and sit in the flagstoned, hop-fringed bar – the menu’s the same. On Sundays, Cumbrian roast beef darts out of the kitchen laden with potatoes cooked in dripping, Yorkshire pudding, cauliflower cheese, honey-roast carrots and seasonal greens. The towering, twice-baked Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire cheese souffle is another firm favourite. There’s market-fresh fish served with braised baby gem if you’d prefer, and a vegan/vegetarian menu including whole roast baby celeriac with baby beets and cavolo nero. Booking is advised, with the à-la-carte menu and specials available from 12-4pm. Dogs allowed in the bar only. NC
Crosthwaite, Cumbria LA8 8HR; 01539 568237;
the-punchbowl.co.uk; ££
The Star Inn, Harome
The Star Inn conjures the feeling of JRR Tolkien’s hobbit-filled Shire as you approach, the hillocky landscape slightly obscuring the view of the thatched pub from one angle. The effect gives its front door a miraculous feel, as though you’ve crossed into another realm to reach it. A heavily beamed, 14th-century interior does nothing to dispel this otherworldly, other-species feeling. I prefer the pub side to the Michelin-starred restaurant, though the latter is chic and ideal for special occasions, such as weddings. It’s not cheap, but the price of the Sunday roast is merely eyebrow-raising, rather than once-a-year expensive. Something fancy always happens with black pudding – some stack or sausage roll – and the crackling is world-beating. ZW
Harome, Yorkshire YO62 5JE; 01439 770397;
thestaratharome.co.uk; £££
MIDLANDS AND EAST ANGLIA
Darsham Nurseries, Suffolk
Flagged up as one of the Observer Food Monthly’s “50 things we love in 2017”, this is the garden centre cafe on everybody’s lips. And it really is a garden centre cafe – drive about 25 miles on the A12 out of Ipswich towards Lowestoft, and you’ll come across this pretty nursery, with its carefully manicured footpaths and raised beds, and bountiful selection of fragrant perennials and heirloom seedlings. Wend your way through the greenery to the cafe, a beautifully airy spot with a patchwork Elmer-the-elephant-style floor – a medley of rubber tiles in every hue. Characterfully mismatched chairs, industrial pendant lighting and walls and counters made of stacked timbers keep things textured, while an endless supply of fresh flowers brings the outside indoors. Curated exhibitions by local artists adorn the walls.
Ecology is always at the fore: co-owner David Keleel says the goal is that everything edible that is grown on site “should end up on a plate”. And most of the produce used in the cafe is indeed from its garden. It’s a creative, outward-looking menu from head chef Nicola Hordern and her team. Sunday’s day-long brunch menu changes daily, with most dishes easily made vegetarian or vegan. The small plates selection is a veg fest, roast roots, charred brassicas, green pea farinata, spiced lentils and the like.
Large plates – served from 12 onwards – might include braised beef on toast with hot sauce and a fried egg or salt hake and blood orange salad. Intriguing items abound, such as goat stifado with almond skordalia, and all you can accompany these with local sourdough from the nearby famed Pump Street bakery. The desserts are as delicate and fragrant – think feta and honey cheesecake or a blood orange and juniper posset – as the planted offerings outside. DBS
Main Road, Darsham, Suffolk IP17 3PW; 01728 667022;
darshamnurseries.co.uk ££
Hambleton Hall, Oakham
An opulent, old-fashioned country house overlooking a magnificent lake in England’s smallest county. With a Michelin-starred chef at the helm, this is a superbly formal Sunday lunch. Fragrant starters – including gravadlax and horseradish ice-cream or smoked eel and watercress – precede more trad mains of lamb, beef sirloin with all the trimmings, sea bream with risotto and pork with apple and crackling. The speciality vegetarian menu doesn’t disappoint, featuring, as it does, cauliflower beignets, tartlets of artichoke and wild mushroom ragout. A cheeseboard to match the sommelier-led wine picks, and inventive desserts (peanut-butter ice-cream with banana souffle, anyone?). Dogs are not allowed in the dining room. Reservations are essential – at least a couple of weeks in advance. Children under five are not allowed, and elegant dress is required. DBS
Hambleton, Oakham, Rutland LE15 8TH; 01572 756991;
hambletonhall.com; £££
The Anchor, Morston
Many a bedraggled birdwatcher and sodden sailor has gasped for sustenance after a long day immersed in north Norfolk’s elements: wind, salt, sea and mud so thick you can almost skate on it. Luckily, they have The Anchor to fall into, with its range of East Anglian brews on tap – Winter’s, Woodforde’s and, no surprise, Adnams – plus excellent pub food that celebrates what’s local: hearty roasts, Norfolk dapple cheese souffle, and, of course, Morston mussels. The latter are even more famous than the mud – and are served in an array of preparations, from classic mariniere to Thai, Belgian and even a leek-based Norfolk sauce. We can recommend a Fernet-Branca among the digestifs for those in need of some central heating before they brave the elements once more. MH
Morston, Norfolk NR25 7AA; 01263 741392;
morstonanchor.co.uk; ££
Butley Orford Oysterage, Orford
If you like fish and shellfish, you’re in for a treat. From taramasalata on toast to wing of skate, via oyster soup, smoked eel, crab cakes and angels on horseback, if it’s got scales or shell, it’s on the menu, cooked with care but little fuss. If you’re still hungry afterwards (unlikely, especially if you follow up with treacle tart, chocolate truffle torte or mango sorbet), you can get fresh, smoked and frozen fish to cook at home from the shop at Orford Quay. Lunch is from 12-2:15pm and its best to book ahead. Dogs not allowed. PD
Orford, Suffolk IP12 2LH, 01394 450277;
pinneysoforford.co.uk/the-restaurant; ££
Hope & Anchor, South Ferriby
Just five minutes from the Humber bridge, this 19th-century building is popular with birdwatchers, sailors and dog walkers, and was named best pub in Lincolnshire in the 2017 national pub and bar awards. Roasts include sirloin of Lincoln beef, barbecued free-range chicken and pork shoulder, all served with Yorkshire pudding, locally grown vegetables, roast potatoes and gravy. If none of that floats your boat, how about barbecued duck breast with confit leg and crispy wing, or the veggie-friendly black truffle and wild mushroom macaroni and cheese? Round things off with lemon posset or rhubarb crumble. Lunch is served from 12-6pm; booking recommended in the restaurant, but not possible in the bar. Dogs welcome in the bar area. PD
South Ferriby, Lincolnshire DN18 6JQ; 01652 635334;
thehopeandanchorpub.co.uk; £
The Gunton Arms, Gunton
The neon scrawl over the dining room doors suggests this isn’t your typical rural inn. Set in a 1,000-acre private deer park near Cromer, The Gunton Arms is bedecked with contemporary art (the owner is in the business). The neon is the work of Tracey Emin. Paula Rego, Damien Hirst and Gilbert and George are also here. The atmospheric Elk room is a superb setting for Sunday lunch. Crab and venison from the estate are not to be missed. Sure, the London crowd are lured here, but the locals love it too. Booking is advised: Sunday lunch is served from 12-3pm. Dogs are allowed in the bar and dining room, but not the Elk room. NC
Thorpe Market, Norfolk NR11 8TZ; 01263 832010;
theguntonarms.co.uk; ££
The Red Lion, Partney
This village pub and guesthouse is well-placed as the start or endpoint of a long ramble through the lovely Lincolnshire Wolds. The restaurant feels homely, and the unendingly friendly service makes it tick. Owner Christine Hurrell feels passionately that supporting local food and drink producers (all the suppliers are listed on its website) is vital – indeed, the Batemans’ XXXB English pale ale made 10 miles away is brilliant on its own, but possibly even better as part of the steak and ale shortcrust pie. Other Sunday lunch options, including the battered Grimsby haddock, are generously portioned, but make space for some chunky chips. Food served from 12-8:30pm VS
Partney, Lincolnshire PE23 4PG; 01790 752271;
redlioninnpartney.co.uk; £
THE SOUTH-WEST AND WEST
Riverford Field Kitchen, Buckfastleigh
While you’d be forgiven for thinking that “fresh, seasonal produce” is just another marketing ploy, when it’s the country’s foremost organic veg box supplier promising it by the plateful, well, that’s a promise you know will be kept.
Riverford Field Kitchen opened its doors in May 2010. Seven years on, the food on offer is still as stellar. There is no menu. Rather, lunch is a superlative, multi-dish affair dictated by whatever was harvested that morning in the farm’s fields. Expect an array of crunchy salads and veg, followed by one sharing meat dish and a whole lot more veg dishes: fresh produce, as you’d expect, is the steady star of the table, and meat the humble sidekick. Come dessert, you get to choose from a selection in the kitchen. And drinks-wise, there’s a selection of organic wines, local juices, beers and ciders.
The restaurant is housed in a high-ceilinged, modern terracotta building, with the kitchen partly on display. Booking is required, with two slots (12:30 for 1pm and 3:30 for 4pm) for Sunday lunch – check for availability online. Arrive early to make the most of your time on the farm: there’s an excellent walk that takes in a reservoir and a small wood.
Children of all ages are welcome: a toy box, kids’ bookshelf and colouring sheets, as well as plenty of space to run around on the lawn will ensure there are no tears. The little ones (under-threes) go free, under-12s half price. But even at full price, the meal is affordable, which, as Jay Rayner commented in his review at the time, “points up the economic advantage of a vegetable-dominated diet”. An excellent advertisement for those veg boxes. DBS
Buckfastleigh, Devon TQ11 0JU; 01803 762074;
riverford.co.uk/restaurant; ££
Coombeshead Farm, Lewannick
This unassuming farmhouse in the depths of the east Cornish countryside was opened last year by chefs Tom Adams and April Bloomfield. The impeccable food offering (the vast majority comes from the farm’s surrounding 66 acres) has visitors clamouring for space at their 10-seater farmhouse table. Happily, this autumn the chefs are opening up a barn for Sunday service. There won’t be a menu as such: guests will preorder their lunch according to what’s available on the farm. Pork is a preoccupation, but vegetarians will have something seasonal pulled from the ground outside. Lunch served 12.30-3.30pm, booking essential. Dogs allowed. NC
Lewannick, Cornwall PL15 7QQ; 01566 782009;
coombesheadfarm.co.uk; ££
The Moody Cow, Upton Bishop
Six years ago, this quiet village pub had a bad rep and was about to close, until local team Chris and Dawn took over. This year it boasts its third entry in the Michelin Red Guide. Chef Ashley cooks up a Sunday menu of locally produced food – vegan and vegetarian options always on offer too – and the team will happily amend your order just how you like it. All cooked from scratch. And, apparently, the apple crumble is better than your mum’s. Book ahead or be disappointed: Sunday lunch served 12‑5pm. Dogs welcome in the workshop and kitchen dining rooms. DH ££
Upton Bishop, Herefordshire HR9 7TT; 01989 780470;
moodycowpub.com
Rose and Crown Inn, Ashbury
A 16th-century coaching inn that welcomes Sunday lunchers with goose-fat roasties, cauliflower cheese and pigs in blankets. It’s the kind of lunch that is guaranteed to induce a rosy-cheeked, post-prandial nap. We are also intrigued by the “Sunday baguette” – your choice of roast meat, stuffed into fresh bread and served with a heap of roast potatoes and pot of gravy. A roast butty, of sorts. Booking is advised with the Sunday menu available 12-3pm. And dogs are welcome. NC
Ashbury, Oxfordshire SN6 8NA; 01793 710222;
roseandcrowninn.co.uk; ££
The Gurnard’s Head, Treen
This dining pub with rooms is painted a joyous shade of yellow, the better to match its reputation as a holiday destination, sitting midway between St Ives and St Just, on one of Britain’s most beautiful coastal drives. As you’d expect for a seaside pub, the menu is big on fish, with Megrim sole, ray wing and crisp whitebait specialities. Roast options include chicken with thyme gravy and rib of beef with Yorkshire puds. We’d go just for the starter and dessert menus too, which feature foraged nettle gazpacho, soused mackerel, maple and pecan ice-cream and amaretto sabayon. The bar is cosily lit by church candles, and what’s behind it, selected with great care. So much so, that if they see one of their wines in a supermarket, the website states, “we usually delist it.” Dogs welcome to stay and to eat. Lunch served from 12-2:30 – booking is always a good idea, but they do take walk-ins. DBS
Treen, Cornwall TR26 3DE; 01736 796928; gurnardshead.co.uk; ££
Beckford Arms, Fonthill Gifford
A traditional country pub with rooms a 20-minute drive from Stonehenge or Salisbury. Expect a good range of local ales and a varied wine list, as well as custom cocktails: try the Beckford bellini with a local peach liqueur and the Beckford bloody mary using horseradish grown in the kitchen garden. A huge open fire and plentiful mulled wine and cider make it a good destination on a wintery weekend. Roasts include slow-roasted pork belly, 42-day aged beef or the Beckford special – a mix of all the roasts with all the trimmings. Vegetarians have a few options: two starters (a carrot and ginger soup and a salt-roasted beetroot salad) and single mains of garlic-roasted fregola with cauliflower puree, wild mushrooms, broccoli leaves and crispy duck egg. A canine-friendly place, the pub has its own pooch, Elsa and. Sunday opening hours: 11am to 10.30pm DBS
Fonthill Gifford, Wiltshire SP3 6PX; 01747 870385;
beckfordarms.com; ££
Roth Bar and Grill, Bruton
The restaurant at the Hauser and Wirth gallery’s rural outpost does little to combat Bruton’s reputation for being London-in-the-valley, but everything to delight the Sunday luncher. Roasts that wow – think topside of Aberdeen Angus beef and horseradish, spit-roast leg of lamb with mint sauce, or roast black pig with fennel seed crackling – all alongside dripping potatoes, greens, Westcombe cheddar (yes, we are in the land of stellar cheese), and Yorkshire pud. Fear not if roasts aren’t your thing, alternatives include a knockout burger, delicately prepared Dorset seafood and rainbows of kitchen salads. Many ingredients, including native breeds of pig, sheep and cattle, are raised here at Durslade farm or grown in the kitchen garden, and those bought in are strictly local. The Roth’s bar is no less impressive than chef Steve Horrell’s food – don’t miss the Francis Mallman-inspired asado grill in action in the summer. MH
Durslade Farm, Bruton, Somerset BA10 0NL; 01749 814700;
rothbarandgrill.co.uk; £££
The Talbot Inn, Mells
Book a table at the Coach House Grill at the back of this cute cobbled courtyard for a slap-up lunch in stylish surroundings. Meat is grilled on an open wood and charcoal fire at the far end of the wood-panelled hall. Choose from chicken, lamb or beef, or, better still, order a sharing board, which allows you to sample a bit of everything. Non-meat-eaters should sit in the snug pub/restaurant, where interesting, veg-centric dishes change according to what’s available in the kitchen garden. You’ll also find Talbot Ale on tap and mulled cider if there’s a nip in the air. The rooms are lovely, too. Booking advised. Sunday coach house grill menu available from 12-3pm. Dogs are allowed. NC
Mells, Somerset BA11 3PN; 01373 812254;
talbotinn.com; ££
Hare and Hounds, Bath
As elegant as the town it calls home, this hilltop institution has the interiors and gardens to match the views over Charlcombe valley: bright rooms, all painted wainscoting and polished wood, with a wall of gorgeous small-paned and lead-lined windows; leather armchairs to sink into; and a bar well-stocked with firm favourites. Expect friendly service and well-made trad fare with a twist: black pudding fritters and spicy chicken wings for starters; belly of pork with apple sauce or beef sirloin with a Yorkshire pud to follow. There’s a vegetarian roast – a mushroom and roasted pine nut wellington with cep velouté – and the cheeseboard is not to be skipped, this being a stone’s throw from true Cheddar country. Lunch served from 12-4pm. DBS
Lansdown Road, Bath BA1 5TJ; 01225 482682;
hareandhoundsbath.com; ££
THE SOUTH-EAST
Silo, Brighton
At the forefront of Brighton’s restaurant renaissance is this eatery with a frankly bonkers mission statement – to make everything from scratch with nigh-on zero waste; nobly upheld by chef-owner Douglas McMaster. Both packaging and food miles are kept to an absolute minimum by a “pre-industrial food system”. Ancient techniques – milling flour, churning butter, rolling oats – are all carried out in the kitchen. Beasts are eaten nose-to-tail and even the almond milk is homemade.
Inside, a ginormous composter greets customers at the entrance – it has the capacity to process 60kg of food waste overnight. (The kitchen doesn’t produce anywhere near that amount, so the restaurant generously processes scraps from neighbouring restaurants.) Chipboard and steel furniture fills the cavernous space. There isn’t much concession to comfort – apart from when it comes to the food. Nostalgic, humble dishes such as roast leeks, bacon and new potatoes, or chestnut mushroom and Montgomery cheddar risotto for veggies – belie McMaster’s thoroughly modern approach to food production. Dessert is a buffalo milk sorbet, or cakes raided from the on‑site bakery. Drinks include a seasonal cordial, perky kombucha, Silo’s own ale and a gently effervescent, mildly alcoholic elderflower spritz. The perfect start to a sustainable Sunday lunch (10-3.30pm). NC
North Laine, Brighton BN1 4AN; 01273 674259; silobrighton.com; ££
The Coach, Marlow
The Coach is the latest in Tom Kerridge’s restaurant empire, to be found, like the Hand and Flowers, in the Thames‑side town of Marlow. Chef Nick Beardshaw’s team serve an unchanging daily modern British menu, which features plenty of vegetarian and pescatarian options, so Sunday lunch is to be found on the specials board – typically roast beef with Yorkshire pudding. The combination of a breakfast service and a no-bookings policy means you may have to wait for your table but, as with all Kerridge establishments, it will be worth it. Lunch is served from 12-3pm. KPH
Marlow, Buckinghamshire SL7 2LS; 01628 483013,
thecoachmarlow.co.uk; ££
The Five Alls, Filkins
This 18th-century Cotswolds coaching inn was refurbished in 2012 when chef/proprietor Sebastian Snow took charge. It has become rapidly popular, so make sure to book. Sunday lunch comes in addition to the regular menu, which includes vegetarian dishes, with roast beef or roast pork plus the trimmings available for £16.50 or as a part of a three course set lunch for £26. But what you really come for is Snow’s meticulous, Italian-influenced cooking using the best Cotswolds produce, with beef coming from local herds raised on the Gloucestershire and Wiltshire border and pork from Manor Farm in Kelmscott. Dogs are welcome and vegan options are available on request. KPH
Filkins, Lechlade, Oxfordshire, GL7 3JQ; 01367 860875;
thefiveallsfilkins.co.uk; ££
The Taverners, Isle of Wight
This country pub and “eating house” prides itself on cooking with local produce, whether it’s beetroot or bream, “pig face” or pigeon breasts. Come on Sunday and you might be served roast rib of island-reared beef, hung for at least 21 days and slow-roasted overnight; twice-cooked island-reared lamb shoulder with goat’s cheese mash, green beans and pepperonata; baked plaice with sun-dried tomato crust, Isle of Wight new potatoes, spinach and lemon butter; or, for vegetarians, potato rosti, padron peppers, baked duck egg, parmesan and heritage tomatoes. Follow that with artisan cheeses, banana bread cheesecake or apple and almond crumble. Booking here is essential – lunch is served from 12-3pm, and four‑legged friends are welcome. PD
Godshill, Isle of Wight PO38 3HZ; 01983 840707;
thetavernersgodshill.co.uk; £
The Shepherd & Dog, Fulking
“A local pub and proud of it”, the Shepherd & Dog sits at the foot of the Devil’s Dyke to the north of Brighton, a ramshackle collection of former cottages with great views of the South Downs. The Sunday roasts include slow-cooked Funtington Farm pork belly with crackling and apple sauce; leg of South Downs lamb roasted with garlic and rosemary; and “the Veggie” – a roasted pumpkin, wild mushroom and spinach filo basket with roast potatoes and vegetable gravy. If roasts aren’t your thing, there’s small plates such as chorizo cooked in lemon juice, Steyning rabbit and shiitake mushroom spring roll, and chickpea, cumin and coriander falafels. Sweets include crumble, creme brulee, and avocado and lime cheesecake. Lunch is served from 12-6pm, and you’d be best to book a table. Do bring your dog too. PD
Fulking, West Sussex, BN5 9LU; 01273 857382;
shepherdanddogpub.co.uk; ££
The Sportsman, Seasalter
The windswept marshland surrounding this Kentish pub has a bleak romance to it – think Great Expectations – although the pub facade does not, with its dubious conservatory and sea of carpark. But, oh, what lies inside! Chef Stephen Harris, also consulting chef at London’s Noble Rot, is making some of the best food in the UK today. You can choose between the five-course tasting menu or a la carte – although we think a Sunday calls for the latter, of which our highlights are the not-just-any-oysters, pickled herring and cabbage salad, Thornback ray with brown butter, and an apple sorbet with burnt cream … With beverages running the gamut of bitter to fine Burgundy, this is at once a local boozer and one of Britain’s most refined restaurants, and will make for a very special Sunday. Food service on Sunday: 12:30-14:45. MH
Seasalter, Kent, CT5 4BP; 01227 273370;
thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk; £££
The Pointer, Brill
Sunday lunch is served until 5pm in this busy open-plan kitchen and vaulted restaurant in the Bucks village of Brill, where they serve all their own produce. Overlooking a beautiful walled garden – sunflowers, nasturtiums, rainbow chard, there’s produce aplenty for sumptuous platefuls. And sumptuous they are: a typical starter of smoked salmon with beetroot and said nasturtium leaves might be followed by roast sirloin or new-season lamb, with all the trimmings you’d like. The vegetarian options are just as inspired, while the desserts ... well, you’ll want every one of them. Local ales are served, from Vale Brewery and the XT Brewing Company, including their own Pointer Pint, and the wine list is excellent. DBS
Brill, Buckinghamshire HP18 9RT; 01844 238339;
thepointerbrill.co.uk; ££
Ye Olde Yew Tree, Westbere
Kent’s oldest pub (1348) can be found just outside Canterbury, and has a strong selection of real ales and snacks, followed by hulking Sunday roasts of nut, lamb, pork belly or chicken with all the trimmings. Alternatively, try the well-stuffed baguettes, or lightly pan-fried seabass offered with locally grown asparagus and caper and lemon butter. Dine in the pub garden or an interior chockablock with wooden beams and antique decor, as well as an original inglenook fireplace. Run by Anna Svensson and her chef partner Mark Abbott, it’s family and dog-friendly. Sunday lunch: 12-4pm. Book ahead. VS
Westbere, Canterbury CT2 0HH; 01227 710501,
yewtreewestbere.co.uk; ££
The Trout at Tadpole Bridge, Buckland Marsh
A quintessentially pretty Cotswold pub - all stone and tweed and leather armchairs - in a lovely setting by the Thames. Enjoy roast sirloin of beef with Yorkshire pudding; braised Oxfordshire pork with crackling and apple sauce; pan-fried hake fillet with crushed potato, Swiss chard and butter sauce; or, for vegetarians, creamed leek and stilton gnocchi bake. Desserts include strawberry souffle with vanilla ice-cream, and gooseberry cobbler with elderflower sorbet. You’d be best to book a table in advance. Lunch is served from 12-2:30pm. PD
Buckland Marsh, Faringdon, Oxfordshire SN7 8RF; 01367 870382;
troutinn.co.uk; ££
LONDON
The Camberwell Arms, SE5
While you won’t find Yorkshire puddings at the Camberwell Arms, their weekend lunch menu will still satisfy those craving crisp-edged, juicy meat and comfort trimmings — sharing options such as hefty sirloin steaks with roast potatoes, béarnaise and watercress, and spit-roast whole chickens with a punchy aioli are staple crowd pleasers. That said, elsewhere on the menu there’s an eclectic, globally influenced mix of fresh pasta, spiced lentils, pickled fish and eye-catching salads, all unified by flavourful, seasonal ingredients. Essentially, there’s something for everyone in a relaxed setting.
The ownership has changed in recent months, shifting from the redoubtable Anchor and Hope group to the people behind Peckham’s rooftop joint Frank’s Café. In chef Michael Davies there’s a steady and consistent hand on the tiller; indeed, it has been suggested that freedom to go slightly beyond a resolutely British menu has emboldened the cooking. The ethos is “if we can make something ourselves, we do” — which means cured meats, fresh pasta, bread and smoked fish — and if not, then source it well and cook it simply. It’s a more than solid model, and makes for an excellent neighbourhood pub and restaurant. ES
65 Camberwell Church St, London SE5 8TR; 020 7358 4364; thecamberwellarms.co.uk; ££
Drapers Arms, N1
It’s something of a disservice to say this Islington institution ticks all the boxes. But it’s true. Ribs of beef, shoulders of lamb and whole roast chickens are delivered on vintage platters with all the trimmings. There are seasonal, on-point, individually plated options too. The drinks list is thoughtful and ever-changing, offering something for both connoisseur and thirsty alike. All that and board games, log fires, beer garden … There’s that feeling when you walk in that this is going to be a good one and you’ll want to stay a while. Sunday lunch served from 12-8:30pm, and it is essential to book. Dogs are allowed on the ground floor (plenty of tables), but not upstairs in the dining room. ES
44 Barnsbury Street, London N1 1ER; 020 7619 0348;
thedrapersarms.com; ££
The Guinea Grill, W1
There’s been a pub on this Mayfair site since 1423. But if you’re coming here for history, it’s for the steak speak-easy Grill Room that opened in 1952, went legit in ’54, and remains famous to this day. As well as a first-rate Sunday lunch of roast sirloin or pork, you can indulge in steaks — dry aged for up to 30 days — on the grill or excellent pies. There are vegetarian options. And dogs are allowed in the bar, but not the dining room. You may even get a glimpse of legendary landlord Oisin Rogers. Sunday lunch is served 12-3:30pm. KPH
30 Bruton Place, London W1J 6NL; 020 7409 1728;
theguinea.co.uk; £££
The Bull and Last, NW5
A walk on Hampstead Heath followed by a pub lunch makes for a peerless London Sunday, and – provided you book well ahead – this wonderful establishment on the heath’s Kentish Town side has a sterling offering. Roaring fires (just the thing to dry out any wet hounds in your party – although they are not allowed upstairs), burly Yorkshire puddings and roasts of all descriptions delight, as does their wine list, which has good organic and biodynamic options among the regular favourites. Make sure that you leave some space for the seasonal house ice-creams … MH
168 Highgate Rd, Highgate, London NW5 1QS; 020 7267 3641;
thebullandlast.co.uk; ££
Harwood Arms, SW6
Though refined and at the level of a high-end restaurant, The Harwood Arms’ roasts remain satisfyingly hearty, with sharing platters of blushing pink beef served next to handsome yorkshire puddings hiding ponds of braised meat. Other dishes are on offer thanks to a menu that reflects the seasons – expect grouse and other feathered game through autumn and winter. Vegetarians and vegans are also catered for. Dining here is not a casual affair – both food and service are highly regarded and the prices reflect that, yet it is still an informal atmosphere. It’s advisable to book ahead and to mention you’d like a roast when doing so … and to begin your meal with a Scotch egg. Sunday lunch served from 12-3pm. ES
Walham Grove, London SW6 1QP; 020 7386 1847;
harwoodarms.com; £££
Parlour, NW10
Anywhere that makes sure you receive lashings of gravy has to be a good bet for Sunday lunch, and this popular Kensal Green restaurant delivers in spades. With traditional favourites and playful alternatives, there’s something for everyone (including the starters pictured on the cover). Reasonably priced with elegant vegetarian options, the menu offers Dick Whittington’s Knapsack Chicken as a sharing option, with your Sunday roast encased in pastry. Dogs are allowed in the bar and the garden. No mention is made, if you are Dick Whittington, on whether you can bring your cat. KPH
5 Regent Street, London NW10 5LG; 020 8969 2184;
parlourkensal.com; ££
The Marksman, E2
Another ideal London Sunday, this time to the east of the city, might consist of an early morning visit to Columbia Road flower market, followed by a convivial drink or two. By happy coincidence, The Marksman is just round the corner from those blooms, and covers the hospitality aspect very nicely indeed. Choose two or three courses from the modern British menu, which offers crowd-pleasing mains with a twist (pork belly and burnt apple ketchup), and an assured and stylish take on seasonal starters and desserts. Non-roast and veggie/vegan options are available. The perfect mix of old boozer and contemporary dining room, you’ll need to book ahead a few weeks in advance to avoid disappointment. Sunday lunch served from 12-4pm. Dogs are allowed downstairs in the pub, where food is also served. ES
254 Hackney Rd, London E2 7SJ; 020 7739 7393;
marksmanpublichouse.com; ££
The Castle, E17
Family, large group and dog-friendly, this genial Walthamstow pub is an ideal place to stop for an honest and homely meal. The food is without lofty ambition or surprise (meat or nut roast, Yorkshire pudding, buttered veg and roast spuds) but it’s tasty, timely and dependable; and sometimes that’s all that’s really needed. Vegetarians are catered for. There’s a log fire, and an unpretentious selection of drinks, including a range of London-brewed ales on tap. Dogs are welcome. ES
15 Grosvenor Rise East, Walthamstow Village, London E17 9LB; 020 8509 8095; thecastlee17.com; £
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