This is a shot of a bar tender pouring sparkling wine on several wine glasses with the 3 wine ... [+]
“I think the idea of orange wine is really interesting—a white wine with lots of structure that pairs with richer foods and ages well,” shares Brook Bannister, winemaker of Bannister Wines.
What exactly is orange wine? To place orange wines in the proper context, let’s back up and review the general process of making white, red, and rosé wines.
White wine is made by removing the skins prior to fermentation, resulting in clear juice. Red and rosé wines are crafted using dark-skinned grapes. In these cases, the skins remain with the pressed juice for a period of days for red wine, and hours for rosé.
Orange wines are made similar to red and rosé wines, whereby the skin stays in contact with the juice for a few hours—resulting in a unique color, texture, and flavor.
While the style may be new to many, its origin traces back to ancient viniculture, believing to have originated in the Republic of Georgia. Popularity, along with controversy, of this category has risen steadily in the United States in the past few years. “Its popularity rose a bit too fast, getting trapped by some misconception and incomprehension,” explains Bruno Almeida, sommelier and wine and spirits educator.
Two Shepherds Pinot Gris Skin Fermented Wine
Two Shepherd’s winemaker William Allen attributes the misconceptions to lack of authentic information. He experiences younger generations asking for orange wine at bars based on influencer recommendations without understanding the wine’s style. “Like many beverages, classic orange wines can be an acquired taste,” shares Allen. “Who after all, likes their first sip of a single malt scotch?”
A white wine is expected to taste either crisp and fruity or round and buttery. Many perceive tannins or minimal oxidation as a flaw. Crafting and consuming orange wines requires an open mind and exploration.
Winemakers embrace a variety of means in crafting orange-style wines.
Bannister makes his 2019 Riesling the same way he makes red wine, believing the trick is knowing how long to allow the juice to soak with the skins. He must taste the juice daily to insure the desired outcome.
Allen seeks a fresh style. “I want to create something more approachable that I would enjoy, as well as [appeal to] a wider audience.” Ryan Sherman, winemaker of Fields Family Wines, found twenty-four hours of skin-contact, coupled with combining stainless steel tank and barrel fermentation and aging produced a wine he says “will age and age and age.”
Some orange wines, like this Big Table Farm Pinot Gris, are the perfect option for pairing with ... [+]
Why drink orange wine? This versatile style pairs well with a wide variety of food. “Lighter styles pair well with oysters and charcuterie, while bolder versions go great with blue cheese, a juicy pork chop, kebabs or skewers, grilled fish, pasta with white rich sauces, suggests Almeida. “Aromatic driven varieties pair well with Thai, Indian and soft cheeses.”
Like all wines, serving temperature plays a key role. Almeida recommends a range of 50°F to 57°F. Furthermore, he suggests decanting when young to mellow the tannins, and enjoying in a Burgundy glass to “better shine [the wine’s] character.”
Today, this diverse style has gained notoriety in restaurants, retailers, and media outlets. Sommeliers embrace the range from traditional eastern European styles to an array of American interpretations. Almedia’s American favorites include west coast producers Dirty & Rowdy, Donkey & Goat, Ryme Cellars, and Forlorn Hope, and east coast producers Channing Daughters, Chëpìka Wine, La Garagista Farm + Winery, and Wild Arc Farm.
Due to the growing success of the category, Two Shepherds has expanded their orange wine offerings. All their wines remain approachable to align with Allen’s philosophy of “wider appeal.”
Consistency is key in this no-rules category, there will remain hits and misses. Yet, Almedia believes the category will “endure a bright future because it is fun and social.”
A few west coast orange wines that offer a great entry point to the category.
2018 Bannister Cole Ranch Riesling Mendocino County ($28): Orange hue due to 10-day skin-contact, aromas include tart apple, loads of citrus, quince paste, and Chinese five spice, tension between creamy texture and fierce acidity with a trailing bitter almond finish. Perfect with spicy foods such as Thai, sushi, and blacked fish tacos.
2018 Big Table Farm Pinot Gris Willamette Valley ($32): Vibrant fuchsia with copper highlights due to skin-fermentation, notes of stone fruit, dried orange rind, tart red berry, and all spice, elegant and rich texture wraps the palate, lean acidity drives the finish, so much to play with in regards to food pairings, such as shishito peppers blisted in sesame oil, grilled lamb chops, oysters, and Dungeness crab, a winemaker favorite.
2019 Fields Family Winery Estate Grenache Blanc Lodi ($24): Deep straw in the glass, notes of citrus, pear, ginger, and marcona almond, elegance and structure with long acidity, highly approachable to a broad array of tastes. Pair with Thai-style halibut, ceviche, oysters, or shrimp tacos. Available October 2020.
2018 Montinore Estate L’Orange Pinot Gris Willamette Valley ($35): Coral hue due to 24-36 hours of skin contact, blended in clay and fermented in amphora for added textural complexity, notes include stone fruit, melon, citrus pith, and baking spice, energetic and vibrant, long age-ability, pair with orange chicken or peach-glazed grilled pork chops.
2016 Two Shepherds Centime Grenache Blanc Orange Wine Santa Ynez ($30): Centime is French for penny, illustrating the color of this wine due to 12-day skin-fermentation, perhaps faded due to its age, notes of stone fruit, orange peel, quince paste, dried apricot, and all spice mingle in a rich texture, demonstrating the age-ability of this category. Although tannins are minimal there is structure, depth, and elegance uncommon in this category. Food pairings only limited by imagination.
2019 Two Shepherds Pinot Gris Ramato: Fuchsia with copper highlights due to 5-day skin-fermentation creating an orange wine/rosé hybrid, Italian in style, bright notes of stone fruit, red summer berry, orange blossom and peel, candied ginger. Tension between complexity and gulp-ability keeps the palate begging for more. A wine for all food, such as sweet-driven Ponzu sauced sushi and maple glazed salmon, to spicy jalapeño poppers and chimichurri flank steak. Sold out. 2020 available in February.
2019 Troon Vineyards Kubli Bench Amber Applegate Valley ($30): A blend of biodynamically farmed Riesling, Vermentino, and Marsanne. This inaugural blend offers elevated depth and complexity. The layers of flavors, such as orange peel, candied ginger, lemon zest, apricot, wild herbs, baking spice, and minerality, mingle pleasantly, structured and energetic yet highly approachable. Limitless pairings include smoked lamb meatballs in orange marmalade sauce, walnut gorgonzola gnocchi, and browned butter halibut.
