Waygu, the plant-based Wagyu beef alternative that fooled master chef Hidekazu Tojo
- The inventor of the California Roll had never cared for vegetarian ‘beef’ products before, but is now eating his words – and the waygu
- The textured soy protein alternative to the famous beef is the product of a Canadian-Japanese collaboration
He had seen previous efforts to create vegetarian beef products and had not been impressed by the texture or the composition, but mostly he had not much cared for the taste when it was cooked.
“I was unsure about the quality,” he says. “But when I tried it, I could not believe it was made from plants. My first impression was that it was real wagyu beef. I was immediately very impressed.”
“Waygu”, the highly appropriate brand name given this faux beef, is a Canadian-Japanese collaboration, with the manufacturing taking place in Japan. The first samples have already been shipped to restaurants and food producers in Japan and around the world, with full-scale production expected to commence in August, says Blair Bullus, president of Vancouver-headquartered Top Tier Foodsand the brains behind vegan beef.
“Wagyu beef has long been recognised as the best beef in the world for its unique succulent texture and marvellous subtle flavours,” he says. “We set about trying to make a plant-based alternative that would live up to this standard for texture, taste and quality so that those who choose not to eat meat can still enjoy a product of wagyu beef’s legendary quality.”
“Waygu” is based on a textured soy protein that goes through a layering and cooking process that is then flavoured with a selection of natural ingredients typically found in Japanese cuisine, such as rice wine, ginger, garlic paste and soy sauce.
Bullus admits the major technical challenges revolved around managing the texture and density of a plant-based product when it is compared to a food as well known as wagyu beef. The key phase in the production process is the layering of the soybean fibres to create the texture of genuine beef.
And he chose to work with Japanese manufacturers because “Japan has such a rich tradition of cooking with soybeans that their technical expertise is second to none”.
The final outcome are strips of “Waygu” that are best served in the “sukiyaki” style of thinly sliced cuts of meat.
“The reactions from chefs and consumers have been the most satisfying aspect of bringing ‘Waygu’ to market,” says Bullus. “From large-scale sushi restaurants to master chefs and everyday consumers, the reaction has been resoundingly positive.
“And the most common reaction is astonishment that this is made from plants and not beef.” And that, he says, is testimony to the time and effort that went into the development stage.
Japan’s beef association appears nonplussed at this challenge to its control of the sector, with an official of the Wagyu Distribution Promotion Council initially confused at the idea of vegan wagyu and then declining to comment on the interloper.
Bullus insists he is not going into competition with a product that has a global following. At least not straight away.
“We don’t expect much of a response from the wagyu beef industry in Japan as we are trying to promote our products to a different clientele,” he says.
“We want to recognise and celebrate the wagyu beef industry for the products they produce and the farmers they support but we realise there is a growing market of people looking for an alternative to animal protein for many reasons.
“We have made it our goal to develop a product that can live up to the standards set by the wagyu beef industry and create a made-in-Japan alternative for those who want to reduce or eliminate animal protein from their diet.”
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And chef Tojo says that while “Waygu” lacks the appearance of fat marbling that marks out a succulent cut of genuine meat, once the two are cooked and served, they are remarkably similar.
“Certainly, if you were not an experienced wagyu eater then you would not be able to tell them apart when they are prepared in similar dishes,” he said. “I have been very impressed.”
With the signing on Friday of a distribution agreement with Wismettac Asian Foods, one of the largest distributors of Japanese cuisine in the world, Bullus believes “Waygu” will soon find its place in the food chain.
“The potential is great, with initial sales efforts focused on major sushi chains in North America, some of which are already testing and working on menu development for early next year,” he says. “We are hoping to finalise distribution agreements this summer and begin wider sales in North America, Asia and Europe in the fall.”
