'Grotty pub by the sea' in Kent wins Gastropub of the Year - again

The Sportsman in Kent

A self-declared "grotty, run-down pub by the sea" has been named Britain's best gastropub.

The Sportsman near Whitstable in Kent - whose chef-owner, Stephen Harris, writes a weekly column for Telegraph Food - won the Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs Awards for the second year in a row.

Harris, a former financial advisor who taught himself how to cook, opened The Sportsman in Seasalter in 1999 and has won rave reviews for his unpretentious, seasonal dishes, largely created from local ingredients. Typical dishes include slip sole with garlic butter and poached oysters with pickled cucumbers.

James Lowe, the chef-owner of celebrated London restaurant Lyle's, describes Harris's achievement at The Sportsman as "incredible".

“It’s not that easy to get to, and it’s not the prettiest of pubs nor the prettiest of places," he says. "He has just worked really hard, with a small team, for years and years. It’s great to see him recognised, because what he does is nothing to do with obsessions over new openings, hype, trends or social media. His food is incredibly simple."

Oysters with pickled cucumbers and caviar
Stephen Harris's oysters with pickled cucumbers and caviar

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Harris, who has written for The Telegraph since July 2015, says of his win: "I thought 2015 was my moment in the sun - I really didn't expect to win again. I'm incredibly chuffed, particularly because this award is voted for by chefs, restaurateurs and food writers. It's nice to be recognised by them."

Stephen Harris  picking herbs in the garden of his restaurant 
Stephen Harris picking herbs in the garden of his restaurant Credit: Andrew Crowley

Two Yorkshire pubs took second and third place respectively: The Pipe & Glass Inn in Beverly, East Yorkshire and  The Star in Harome, North Yorkshire.

Overall, more pubs in the north of England were included in the list than ever before, occupying over 20 per cent of the spots.

Nicholas Robinson, food editor at the pub trade magazine The Publican’s Morning Advertiser, which organises the event, said: “Being from the north of England myself, it’s great to see so many gastropubs I’m familiar with voted on to the list.

“Great food doesn’t just happen in the south of England or London, but right across the country and it’s pertinent that we recognise that.”

Britain's best gastropubs 2016: in pictures

The list of winning pubs in full

  1. The Sportsman, Seasalter, Kent
  2. The Pipe & Glass Inn, Beverly, East Yorkshire
  3. The Star, Harome, North Yorkshire
  4. The Coach, Marlow, Buckinghamshire
  5. The Pony & Trap, Chew Magna
  6. Freemasons Arms, Wiswell, Lancashire
  7. Harwood Arms, Fulham, London
  8. The Hardwick, Abergavenny, Wales
  9. The Kingham Plough, Kingham, Oxfordshire
  10. The Masons Arms, Knowstone, Devon
  11. The Marksman, Hackney,London
  12. The Butchers Arms, Eldersfield, Gloucestershire
  13. The Rat Inn, Hexham, Northumberland
  14. The Beehive, Maidenhead, Berkshire
  15. The Treby Arms, Plymouth,Devon
  16. Gurnards Head, Zennor, Cornwall
  17. The Greyhound on the Test, Stockbridge, Hampshire
  18. Gunton Arms, Norwich, Norfolk
  19. The Anchor and Hope, Waterloo, London
  20. The Red Lion & Sun, Highgate, London
  21. The Bull & Last, Highgate, London
  22. The Crown, Maidenhead, Berkshire
  23. The Jugged Hare, Barbican, London
  24. The Beckford Arms, Gifford, Wiltshire
  25. The Crown at Bray, Maidenhead, Berkshire
  26. The Plough at Bolnhurst, Bolnhurst, Bedfordshire
  27. The Cornish Arms, Tavistock, Devon
  28. The Broad Chare, Quayside, Newcastle-on-Tyne
  29. The Wild Rabbit, Kingham, Oxfordshire
  30. The Feathered Nest, Country Inn, Nether Westcote, Oxfordshire
  31. The Staith House, Low Lights, North Shields
  32. The Empress, Victoria Park, London
  33. The Kentish Hare, Bidborough, Kent
  34. Journeys End Inn, nr Kingsbridge, Devon
  35. The Fishpool Inn, Delamere, Cheshire
  36. Red Lion Firehouse, Pewsey, Wiltshire
  37. The Royal Oak Paley Street, Maidenhead, Berkshire
  38. Canton Arms, Stockwell, London
  39. The Nut Tree, Murcott, Oxfordshire
  40. The Wellington Arms, Baughurst, Hampshire
  41. The Olive Branch, Rutland, East Midlands
  42. Old School Bar & Kitchen, Mount Hawke, Cornwall
  43. Parlour, Kensal Green, London
  44. Shibden Mill Inn, Halifax, West Yorkshire
  45. The Lickfold Inn, Petworth, West Sussex
  46. The Stagg Inn, Kington, Herefordshire
  47. The Truscott Arms, Maida Vale, London
  48. The Parkers Arms, nr Clitheroe, Lancashire
  49. The Bridge Tavern, Newcastle, Newcastle-upon-Tyne
  50. The Lord Clyde, Kerridge, Billington

Recipes from Britain's best gastropub, The Sportsman

Lemon tart

Lemon tart
Salt baked fish
Pork loin with apple sauce
Slip sole and seaweed butter
Onion tart with parsley sauce

 

 

 

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