Good quality cider is increasingly easy to find across the UK, with Yorkshire being the latest county to stake its claim as a serious cider-making region. But for the best stuff, it's still worth exploring the traditional stars of the scene.
Somerset and the West Country
Everyone knows the tired stereotype of the bumpkin and his scrumpy but of course, it's not that simple. Somerset is to cider what Belgium is to beer: eccentric, traditional, misunderstood, with the odd barrel of undrinkable gut-rot to keep you on your toes.
There are many fantastic producers who have outgrown their local roots, and you can't go wrong with names like Sheppy's, Hecks, and – one that sadly doesn't travel well outside Somerset but is worth making the trip for – Wilkins.
The outspoken talisman of traditional Somerset cider making is Julian Temperley at Burrow Hill. His cider is known to thousands from the Glastonbury Festival's famous cider bus, but his exploration of the apple's potential has led to this year's 20 year-old vintage Somerset apple brandy (which can now be referred to as such after a protracted European battle) with a bottle designed by Damien Hirst. He also blends brandy and apple juice to create Kingston Black (18% abv) – an elegant aperitif – and Pomona (20% abv), a digestif, that's a perfect alternative to port and fantastic with cheese.
Wales
There's no substantive difference in flavour or style between the cider from Wales' 40-odd traditional producers and that made in England, even though unique Welsh apple varieties go into it. Just as wine depends on different grape styles for its variety, so cider is usually a blend of sweet, bittersweet and sharp styles, with countless varieties of each.
Producers such as Gwynt-Y-Draig, Ty Gwyn and Hallett's are creating excellent products that satisfy all but the most Luddite traditionalist, at the same time as delighting the curious novice.
Herefordshire, Gloucestershire and Worcestershire
Known as "The Three Counties", the received wisdom is that this is the only area in the country, if not the world, that grows decent Perry pears. Herefordshire is also home to Weston's, one of the biggest "quality" cider makers in the UK, and another champion of cider in cooking, with an on-site chef pushing key brand Wyld Wood to its limits.
Honourable mentions
In addition to the three giants, Kent is the home of many great small scale cider makers, as well as the National Fruit Collection at Brogdale Farm, featuring over 650 different apple varieties.
And while it's not known as a cider-making region per se, Suffolk deserves a shout as the home of Aspall's, another huge success story. Founded by Clement Chevalier in 1725, the company is still run by his descendants. Having prospered primarily as a cider vinegar manufacturer, in recent years Aspall's has reclaimed its cider-making roots with draught products starting around 4% abv through to the magnificent Cuvee Chevalier, double-fermented to 11%, which in football parlance could be said to "ask questions" of champagne.
